Why is 'water' present in cosmetics?

Face Cream , Serum , Multi-Active Drops , and Eye Contour : four cosmetic products, four different textures and formulations. Snail slime is the line's main ingredient, but often, when checking the INCI ( International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) of the products, you immediately notice the difference between the Face Serum, where * Snail secretion filtrate appears at the top of the list, compared to the Face Cream, where the ingredient appears after *Aqua ( water).

One of the most frequently asked questions is " Why does water appear first in the INCI of face creams ?" Followed by: How is the percentage of snail slime calculated? If water appears first, does that mean it's lighter?

Unfortunately, advertising and often unclear communication can create confusion among the end consumer. For this reason, in this article we will try to offer clarity and transparency... and who knows, perhaps some useful information to help evaluate the infinite options on the market.

The difference between face creams and serums in terms of ' water as the first ingredient in the INCI' is based on their formulation and function . The cosmetic formula of the face cream , unlike that of the face serum and multi-active drops , inevitably requires the use of water to ensure the solvent activity for some ingredients, facilitating their absorption and stability.

Creams ( Face Cream & Eye Contour )

• Water first in the INCI: Creams are generally emulsions , that is, a mixture of water and oils . Water is the main component because it serves as a solvent to dissolve water-soluble active ingredients (for example, hyaluronic acid, oils, and butters, which require an aqueous base to bind and create the emulsion).
• Texture and hydration: The presence of water gives the cream a soft, light or richer texture , depending on the amount of oils and butters added.
• Function: In addition to hydrating, creams create a protective barrier on the skin, preventing moisture loss.
  

Serums (Face Serum & Multi-Active Drops)

• Less or no water as the first ingredient: Serums are more concentrated formulas, with a base that can be:
  • Aqueous gel (with water, but less than creams such as Snail Slime due to its internal water content).
  • Oils , if oriented to specific functions

• High concentration of active ingredients: In serums, the goal is to deliver a high concentration of active ingredients, vitamins, or antioxidants directly to the skin.
• Light texture: Serums are designed to be quickly absorbed and to work synergistically with other products, such as Cream or Drops.

In short, the difference depends on the product, its function, and the desired consistency and comfort. Serum, drops, or a pure concentrate of snail slime alone do not have the same hydrating effect as a face cream; they have a very high concentration of active ingredients and are designed to penetrate deeply. This is a completely different action from a face cream, which must ensure hydration and protection of the skin barrier. The skin requires both products because they act on different levels , and for this reason, their formulations are also different . Therefore, the water content does not make the product lighter, but its use is simply essential to ensure proper and effective absorption of the ingredients.

We can therefore confirm that water is essential for creating effective textures, delivering active ingredients, and hydrating the skin, and is fundamental to the functionality and pleasantness of many cosmetics.

As for the percentage of snail slime in Demetra products, it is always established as a percentage of the total sum of the active ingredients present in the cosmetic formula, which represent the majority of the listed ingredients, excluding stabilizers and preservatives that inevitably serve to ensure safety during use.

Furthermore, the quality of the raw material: extraction, purity and production method, significantly influence the efficacy and concentration, just as the complementary ingredients ( Hyaluronic Acid, Shea Butter, Blackcurrant, Vitamins, etc. ) are essential to offer a high-performance product.

In light of this explanation, we conclude with a reflection; it is truly essential to insert * Snail secretion filtered as the first ingredient in creams too?

We'll let you in on a secret...not necessarily! For this reason, the Demetra formula has been enhanced with Allantoin , Hydrolyzed Collagen , and Elastin to provide an optimal boost to the active ingredients already present in the snail slime itself, thus offering a very high concentration of active ingredients while maintaining a soft, velvety texture that offers intense hydration and protection like only face creams can.

Seeing is believing!